Kitchens of the Great Midwest

Stradal begins the novel by introducing the older generation before introducing the protagonist to establish the cultural context of the Midwest. Lars Thorvald, the son of bakery owner Gustaf Thorvald, is raised mastering the classic Nordic dish, lutefisk. His proficiency in cooking this pungent fish, however, has an unintended consequence—Lars becomes unappealing to women: “Lutefisk skills usually inspired revulsion or, at best, indifference among prospective dates” (3). The smell establishes a conflict that the novel will explore: that some people in the Midwest feel “indifference” or even “revulsion” toward the cultural heritage that others try to preserve.

Despite this, Lars’s persistence in the kitchen pays off, and he becomes skilled at cooking. Through Lars’s subsequent journey, Stradal reinforces dichotomies that make up the conflict: between the traditional and the highbrow, and between the luxurious and the plain. Eventually, Lars secures a position as the head chef at Hutmacher’s, a luxurious celebrity restaurant. It is here that he encounters the love of his life, Cynthia Hargreaves, whom he describes as “beautiful in a realistic way, akin to the allure of a truck or a pizza at the moment one desires it most” (5). This comparison to the quotidian objects of a “truck” or “pizza” highlight Lars’s ability to enjoy simplicity despite being introduced to luxury. Lars is a very honest and ordinary Midwestern man, who is not looking to marry a model, but he is entranced by the very tall and striking appearance of Cynthia. Lars applying traditional skills in a luxurious restaurant and falling in love with a “realistic” girl suggests the potential for harmony in Midwestern conflicts.

Stradal introduces the protagonist Eva Thorvald, through her relationship to her father. Lars, eager to instill in his daughter a superior and hypersensitive palate, crafts elaborate menus for her. This establishes the theme of Food as a Source of Identity and Community. As Eva grows, Lars takes her to farmers’ markets, introducing her to the unique flavors of moonglow tomatoes, which ignite her passion for exploring diverse tastes.

The inciting incidents of the novel employ elements of tragedy to mark the beginning of the protagonist’s journey of Resilience and Overcoming Adversity. Tensions arise between Lars and Cynthia as she aspires to more than motherhood, while Lars envisions a large family. Feeling pressured, Cynthia leaves the family, leaving behind a desperate letter explaining her decision. This incident suggests that there are gendered conflicts in traditional Midwestern culture, rooted in the patriarchal expectations that women are mothers and homemakers. Furthermore, Lars, succumbs to a heart attack shortly after, leaving Eva an orphan.

Eva’s response to relentless bullying from her schoolmates further underscores the theme of resilience and overcoming adversity. Particularly targeted by a group of boys who subject her to daily assaults, Eva feels imprisoned in her childhood, lamenting her inability to escape and describing her body as “the world’s smallest prison” (43). This implicitly connects Eva to her mother and her attempts to escape the gender-based limitations of motherhood. Her only solace comes from her collection of hot chili peppers, offering a semblance of escape. Fearing the mental toll of ongoing bullying, Eva turns to experimenting with different tastes and flavors, pushing the boundaries of her spice tolerance to extremes. This experimentation allows her to consume even the spiciest foods without flinching. The spicy food provides indirect characterization of her resilience and determination. It is during these experiences that Eva realizes her path to overcoming her tormentors—by filling her mouth with the fiery chili sauce and defiantly spitting it in their faces, she finds empowerment and a form of personal justice in the process.

Cousin Randy becomes Eva’s unwavering defender against the bullies, a figure whom Eva describes as “an untouchable demigod—an angel’s wing broken from an ancient statue, sent here to help her hover above all things insipid and heartbreaking” (47). Randy is hence juxtaposed with Cynthia, who abandoned Eva, and yet Stradal highlights a sense of precarity in this protection. Despite being “an untouchable demigod,” the wing offered as support has been broken from a statue, reflecting Eva’s challenging journey of Defining Family for Oneself.